Tuesday, July 4, 2017

Week 40: Wine & Dine

One of the first 3 words anyone learns when they come to Georgia is 'modi', 'dajecki', and 'jami' or come, sit, and eat! And there is a reason why! Food and drink are perhaps one of the most crucial aspects of not only wider Georgian culture, but also, day to day life!
My first meal in Georgia!
For breakfast, there's a focus on homemade bread, sweet fruit jam, and tea with the occasional egg, while lunch and dinner tend to be heavier dishes! Often, Georgians eat breakfast around 8 A.M. before they go to school while lunch is around 2 or 3 P.M. and dinner can be anytime late in the evening. For special occasions, Georgians throw a 'supra' or a feast! Guests will expect MOUNDS of food and I mean this literally; plates are stacked upon plates! Of course, all of this comes with a rich wine culture! The tamada, or toastmaster, will be sitting at the table giving toasts and tradition dictates the men must 'bulumdi' or finish their glass while women will often sip! If you're lucky (or unlucky depending on how you look at it), the Horn might make an appearance! Ranging from 2 glasses of wine to as much as 10, the Tamada will 'bulumdi' the drinking horn (in addition to the honorable fellows around). Usually, this particular drinking utensil is reserved for special occasions (is casual alcoholism a special occasion???). Regardless, a great time will be had by all!
Homemade Apple Jam

With the horn!
What makes all of these meals particularly special is the namesake dishes and drinks that pass the table! Here are some of Georgia's most delicious!
In my natural habitat
Khinkali
Just the name of this delectable dumpling can send any Georgian into a craze! This delicacy is filled with either seasoned beef or cheese (a slew of other varieties exist as well), and broth. Norms dictate that you must bite into the bottom, suck out all the juice, and eat everything except the top! If any juice touches your plate, it's bad luck!
Khinkali!
Khacapuri
This cheesy quesadilla is ready to hit your arteries with 3 striking varieties: Imeretian, Adjaruli, and Megrelian! Imeretian Khacapuri is the classic option slathered in butter and served hot! Bebia (my host grandmother) has remained Georgia's reigning champion in the Khacapuri Heart Attack Classic with her award winning, artery clogging contraption. Unfortunately, this is not a real contest, but she deserves the praise! Anyways, Adjaruli Khacapuri is a beautiful bread boat filled with a cracked egg, melted butter, and cheese ready to sail it's way into your left ventricle (and ultimately dock there until you die). Megrelian Khacapuri is a spicier version of Imeretian! 
Imeretian Khacapuri
Adjaruli Khacapuri
Lobiani
Because Georgians can't add too many ingredients to a single foodstuff, Lobiani is exactly like Khacapuri, but with BEANS! And it's equally as delicious!
Lobiani!
'I distrust lobiani'
Mtsvadi & other meats
Mtsvadi is simply a grilled kebab, but with larger sticks and, often, larger chunks of pork! Although Georgian cuisine is heavy on bread and cheese, Georgians enjoy fish, Gupta--hefty meatballs--and roasted chickens!
Matsoni & Cheese
Like sour cream, Matsoni is a thick homemade yogurt paired with other dishes but delicious by itself! Meanwhile, cheese in addition to hot homemade bread is served at almost every meal! With most people owning a cow/s, it's no surprise one sees such frequency of these lactose-based products!
Matsoni is in the jar with the red lid. Kartopeli or mashed potatoes on the top right. Near the bottom is ghomi
Tkmali & Adjicka
My favorites, Tkmali is a flavorful plum while Adjicka is a spicy tomato sauce!
Adjicka
Lobio
Another staple of the Georgian diet, Lobio is simply boiled beans with a splash of dill and onions! Best eaten with cold tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, Tkmali, and steaming hot bread!
Lobia in all of its glory
Kartopeli
Kartopeli simply means potatoes in Georgian! It often refers to a potato quesadilla, but Kartopeli can be fried or mashed potatoes. The fried variety is excellent with Adjicka, Tkmali, or ketchup!

Soupi
As the cognate implies, Soupi is just that: SOUP! Anywhere from a thick broth with meat to a pea filled stew bursting with vegetables, visitors will find soups of all varieties around the country!
Deliciousness!
Salata, & Viniagretti
A particularly seasonal dish, Salata is often sliced cucumber, tomatoes, and the occasional lettuce leaf with a dash of vinegar, salt, and--you guessed it--dill! In general, viniagretti *can* refer to other appetizers, but it references the mayonnaise slathered cubed potatoes, carrots, and peas with a dash of dill. My other favorite appetizer is the shredded chicken with mayonnaise!
Soupi on the bottom. Salata in the middle. Pizza on the right. Fresh white cheese on the top.
Sweets
If there is something all visitors should know about Georgia, many Georgians LOVE sugar. Perhaps, the most notable dessert is torti or cake! For any celebratory occasion expect at least one cake with enough frosting to send you into shock! Chocolate of all kinds is extremely common and I absolutely love Kada! This swirly sweet is full of sugar and butter with a crisy exterior and a soft interior!
'We Love Keegan' cake!
Wine
Georgian has a rich wine tradition that has lasted for centuries! Most families have a complete operation where they grow and stomp their own grapes, and ferment the wine! At peak, my family had around 800 liters (211 gallons) of wine! My personal favorite is my family's wine (of course), but I thoroughly enjoy Pirosmani's Saperavi!
If Georgia had Better Homes & Gardens, this would have cover potential...

Grapes in the garden!

Cha Cha
This deadly alcohol, Cha Cha is what I imagine the devil drinks. Made from grapes, it's, realistically, lighter fluid and feels like such. If you want to dance, make sure you specify which Cha Cha you prefer otherwise you'll have heartburn for weeks. Although most people drink it, Cha Cha is widely used as an antiseptic.
The Devil!
Cognaci & Liquor 
Like Cha Cha, Cognaci has a high alcohol content, but tends to be thicker and sweeter from it's fruity origins! Meanwhile, sweet liquors of all varieties can be found. Unfortunately, there is not a brewing culture here, and I've never had a beer here that I enjoyed.

Lemonade & Soft Drinks
Interestingly enough, Georgians are very fond of original, pear, and taragon lemonade! Other popular soft drinks include Fanta and Coke! Juices are widely available and 'Compoto' a homemade fruit drink from a fruit i've never seen before is really popular!

Water!
Natural springs are all over the country and Georgians are proud of the myriad of mineral waters! Borjomi is, perhaps, the most well known outside of the country! If you're sick, Borjomi is a local cure!
Fast food
Strangely enough, fast food is extremely popular here! With McDonald's (9 total), Wendy's (the largest one in the world is in Tbilisi), and other chains like KFC and Dunkin Donuts, globalization has graced its presence here. In fact, most of these chains are viewed as classy establishments! Having visited most of the McDonald's in the country, I must agree!

Although Georgian cuisine contains a handful of ingredients, the fresh flavors and farm-to-table mentality keeps me coming back for more! Come to Georgia for the food and stay for the company! 
My goodbye supra!

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